I’m just full of helpful hints this week. This one comes after seeing a comment on my other site, WristWatchReview about the BR02, a 1000M diver with a fairly striking design. I liked it when I saw it but at $4,800 I could probably pass. But did you know you could get it for a mere $168?
The Chinese fake factories usually churn out familiar models and brands. Rolex and Breitling seem to be in the top positions while Panerai and IWC are inching up behind. Essentially, the pirates make popular watches that are easy to build – usually the three-handed models with only an hour, minute, and second hand to worry about. I’ve seen complicated watches like chronographs but usually the chrono mechanism doesn’t work and it’s junk.
Here’s something more insidious, however. If you’ve never seen a BR02 in real life, you probably couldn’t tell the difference between this:
and this:
Which one is real?
It’s almost impossible to tell and, if you were offered this one on eBay or even in a shop, the novice would be hard-pressed to tell the difference. The bottom is the real model. Here’s how to check on a watch before you buy it.
1. Know what you’re buying. Know the face, the case design, and the case markings. All of these are available from reputable dealers as well as the websites of the manufacturers themselves. In this case, we see that the date window is wrong and the hands are painted incorrectly. A quick comparison would let you pick this out immediately.
2. Buy from an authorized dealer until you “know people.” If you’re looking to buy a big boy watch, go to a local jewelry shop. The folks at Tourneau in NY are very patient and helpful and they know they’re only selling $24,000 watches to collectors so they’re ready to work with you on your $3,000 Omega in hopes of getting your business down the line. If you have time and energy, you can frequent watch boards like WatchUSeek to meet other people who share your obsession and who might be buying and selling something you have or want.
3. Buy vintage. If you need a Rolex, get an older one. There’s no real money in faking a vintage Rolex and you get a bit of history with your purchase.
4. Start slow. Build up to the big purchases. Don’t buy a nice watch in Bermuda because it seems cheap. Unless you’re very lucky and in the right place, there is a slim chance you could be buying a fake. Don’t take that chance.
5. If it seems too good to be true, it is. This is the case with almost any purchase. If the price is too low and you meet the seller on a street corner, you’re probably getting conned. I remember a guy who used to run around the Canal Street area calling out “Movado watch. Museum quality watch. Movado watch.” every day of the year. I suspect his Movado wasn’t real.
Helpful Links
WatchPlace
WatchUSeek Sales Forum
WatchProSite Market
Poor Man’s Watch Forum
Chad, an authorized dealer with a heart.
Perhaps in real life it would be nearly impossible to tell at a glance – but the “good photography” vs. “crap photography” test gave this one away. :)
I’ve always wondered how to tell the fakes from authentics. Thanks for this rundown, John!
The hands were a giveaway for me. It would be much more difficult to produce that thin orange border on the minute hand of the real watch than it presumably was to dip the minute and hour hands of the fake in some white paint.
the hands on the fake are actually more true to B&R design than the real watch. This is one of the few B&Rs where the hands contain a border. Most B&R hands are just ‘dipped in some white paint’. If anything, the replica design (aside from the date window) fits better with their tradition. That being said, do your homework before you buy a watch!
Thanks for the post John.
I’d like to point out that SOME fakes are actually decent quality. I’ve heard of some businesses taking extra care to manufacture replicas that have real swiss automatic movements in them (of course difficult to confirm unless you know what you’re doing).
Ultimately I decided against purchasing a replica Panerai. I like the look of Panerai, but what is the point in owning an imitation? I wear watches for me, not for others… I ended up going for a unique looking russian “Aviator” instead :)
I have to disagree with you re: buying vintage. I’ve seen replicas of every Rolex sport model since the sixties, with period-correct crystals, datewheels, everything.
If you want a good watch buy a vintage watch.They can’t be faked and will grow in value every year.A good old Rolex or other good make is excellent value.Jm.
Regarding John Mowatt remark.. what are you taking about? You ahve no clue.. please stop posting generic moronic posts.
pfff
hands are different? triangle different color? Um. excuse me but if these minute differences are the only thing that differentiates a 4k watch from a 20 dollar fake, you are getting ripped off. This is starting to sound a lot like the BS de beers is selling with their intrinsically worthless diamonds.
I think if B&R really want their stuff not faked is make it out of solid gold or something that really does add value that justifies $4000.00 in this market.
4000.00 breakdown; ($2800 wholesale to retailer)
SS case made from a machine that makes 1 every 5 mins- $30
hands, dial, lume, and crown- $80
ETA 2428 movement (wholesale) – $200
plastic strap with clasp- $20
Total- $330
marketing- $1000
G&A- $735
profit $735
If you are still confused after this I suggest visiting Philippe’s watches of Beverly Hills they take care of me all the time their